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Court of Love

Recreation of Clothes from the Middle of the 100 years war

Approximately 1400 AD

Project: A male and female set of garb from 1400 during the Hundred Years War, in honor of the the Court of Love, a West Kingdom event, hosted by the Barony of Tarnmist.

The Protectorate's Garb- A Coathardie of Linen, countercharged Black and White (Her heraldic colors). On the White side will be her heraldic roses, hand painted in black. An overgown of Red wool. A cloth belt of wool and pretty trim. A headpiece of white linen and wire, time permitting.

The Consort's Garb- A shirt of white linen. A doublet and hose of red wool. An over coat or gown (time will define which length I will choose), a Chaperone of red wool, as time permits. A leather belt, with metal plackets of somesort, as time permits.

My primary literary source and guide: "The Medieval Tailor's Assistant", Sarah Thursfield ISBN 0-89676-239-4

Oh thank God! It doesn't have to be perfectly fitted! No corsetry! Few!

Ok, in truth, I've never done this so I have pattern carefully and take time to actually read the literature. That's ok, because it's easier than the last project- curiously enough, also started
"{ on the 17th of it's respective month. In truth, this one actually started last year when I made the initial drawings, but today, with numbers in hand, I do the patterning.

1/25/09

Well, ok- I've been lacking in updating everything. It's been a while.

Well, I'll claim health issues. Allergies and Asthma sidelined me for about a week. But I have been at least somewhat busy.

I got both patterns done and did to mockups. I even fitted both mockups. And they fit almost perfectly! Yeah me!

then I did something I've never successfully done before. I did a toile. Because, you know, I'm doing hose for the both of them and, you know, there isn't single way to pattern for hose other than to do a toile....Feh! For Mistress Rosio I had planned it would be footed hose, knee high. Lord Godric's hose was to be full and joined, but not footed.

Ok, it makes no sense, I know. Why do feet on one and not the other. Why? I've never done hose before. And everything I've read said that joined hose was more difficult. So, since feet are the most difficult part of it, I'd try it on and easy pattern with little cloth wasted if I screw it up- that would be the knee high.

Of course, when I did the mockup of the hose, I footed the joined hose first. Yeah, I'm a glutton for punishment.

I hope they'll work, because I just don't have it in me to drive another two hours just to fit the bloody things...

But I have them and I'll wait for the opportunity. Instead I decided I would work on his shirt. As of the writing of this, I'm almost done with it. Hem, that's all that's left.

Now, I used the basic pattern given in the Medieval Tailor's Handbook, page 71. And it worked really well! Well, mostly anyways.

See, the gores underneath were squares- err, actually squares rotated to be diamonds. That means once you sew the edge to the sleeve and then attached the sleeve to the body you'll find that there are three sides that need to be sewed. That's rough.

On the side you have originally attached the gusset to the sleeve to, you'll have a beautiful 90 degree angle. On the other side, it becomes much more complicated because of the mess of wayward seams and you can easily lose your bearings.

The solution? Cut the gore in half and sew both halves to the sleeves. That leaves only a straight seam to sew. It may not be 100% period, but it does make it easier to sew and (presumably, since I haven't actually done it yet) cleaner looking.