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Doublet Re-draft

12/30/08

I' m hoping to start this today...

So, a while back- at GWW XI, actually- I had a conversation with Mistress Katrei (no, I'm not cheating on Brianna- she told I could. She keeps me on a loose lead) about my doublets. I was having some problems with the way it fit- though I just attributed it to it being cut a little high wasted. And, although adding a few points to the waist band solved that particular problem later, Mistress Katrei brought up some good points.

The one which stuck with me the longest was the concept of the back Trapezoid. I'll illustrate that a little later. Two things happened since then that really cemented in my mind that I have to give it more than lip service and a half assed attempt to see if it would work. First, I received a new book for Christmas- well, actually way before Christmas. In fact, it came with the new Janet Arnold book in November (yeah me!).

The book is called "Pattern Cutting for Men's Costume" by Elizabeth Friendship, A&C Black Publishing, ISBN 978-1-4081-0006-6 and I was very excited to get it.

It's kind of funny how I got it. It was free.

Yup, free.

How you say?

Well, Alana wanted to get me Janet Arnold 4 as a totally altruistic, no strings attached sort of gift. She apparently had no luck with it being in stock here in the States anywhere. That comes as no surprise. It's not just the Beatles that can produce a work and have it a big hit posthumously!

Well, to make a long story short, they delivered it late and felt really bad. I mean REALLY bad. So bad in fact they sent me a copy of Pattern Cutting as a bribe to keep me from hating them forever. And writing them a really snarky note. And living up to my American reputation over seas.

An boy we they late with my book! I felt so ashamed that everyone had their copy of Janet Arnold 4 prior to me. It was devastating. I mean, my God! What were they thinking? Getting me my copy of Janet Arnold 4 a full 24 HOURS AFTER EVERYONE IN AMERICA GOT THEIRS!!!! Bastards.

But the bribe worked and my indignation was pacified by this work.

It's a phenomenal piece of work. Even Brianna approved!

Lo! What I findeth on page 101eth of this booketh? The Trapezoid! In a basic line drawing none the less! It's the absolute most!

Forsooth! (which, I am lead to believe I the period way of saying w00t!)

12/31/08

Anyways.

With the Tudor Gown redrafted and a mockup cut, I have time to kill.

Onto my doublet! And that gorgeous, magnificent, panacea for all the tailoring problems associated with doubleting, Super Trapezoid!

Seriously, I'm actually excited about it!

Here is the old pattern.

Alas, poor pattern! I knew him, dear readers, a doublet of medium chest, of most excellent fancy. I hath bore him on my back a thousand times, and now how changed in my imagination it is! My gores rises at it.

Got the old, working pattern, re drew it marked the trapezoid and said ZOINKS! You see, if you cut the trapezoid out that leaves you with two edges. Go ahead, mark the seam allowance. Fold it back and Bam! two edges which don't meet. the intelligent man says, fine- now add your seam allowance into both and baddaboom! your good to go.

Yah, well, not how I cut it. See, I marked the seam allowance on the re draw and cut it down that line, so the back piece had a seam allowance, but the side piece (soon to be the front piece) didn't.

Now, if you just add the seam allowance to the back piece then you'll have just enough to meet edge to edge with the non seam allowance edge of the the back piece. But, because your cutting it out of the Armsyce (a nasty curve which screws with everything you do) and the curve is on a decline, your edges won't meet clearly. So, I have to add 2 x 5/8" seam allowance following the curve of the armsyce in order make the edges match up cleanly.

At least that's the theory....

1/2/09

So here's the pattern now that's it's been redrafted, using the trapezoid. I made a mock up of the this and it seemed to work. I couldn't see it in the mirror, but the wife said it looked like it fit better across the back. I'm good with that. It felt like it fit well, but how much can you really tell from a single piece of cloth? So, when 12th night is over I'll make up a doublet using it.

2/8/09

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