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Fun With Patterning (Or, "My Adventures as an English Major Trudging Through a Fraction and Decimal Hell") (If only Dante knew about this....) 12/19/08 Ok, so here is my next major project in Humility (notice how close this is to "humiliation"). Patterning can be tricky, and it's never been my strong point. it's one of the reason I sought out Brianna. She has one hell of a reputation for her patterning skills and her BodyMapping®. Quiet frankly, if she was anymore anal about it, she would need a degree in proctology... Anyways, she has done wonders for my skills in pattering. My garb actually fits because of her instruction, but I am not an engineer, and therefore take much longer to actually apply the concepts I understand intellectually. I figure that I can't be the only one out there in this boat, so, what they hell, lets' put up a page, in a public forum that anybody can access, risk utter humiliation and rebuke of my peers (not because I've done anything wrong, but because they are all secretly jealous that someone as wonderfully amazing as me can place Mr. Winky on the chopping block by broadcasting my failures online and daring the known world to pass judgment. And let's face it, in Caid the only thing that outnumber the amount of well sharpened axes at the chopping block are the number of axes that need grinding) and maybe, just maybe, allow those who need to find an answer have it with no cost to themselves... Happy Christmas everyone! Oh wait...What's Christmas without a fire? But we have no wood! Hey Marciano, what about your soap box? Go ahead and use it. I'll build another later.... Ok, patterning. Well, I can't give you all the details, because, quit frankly, the system I use is in part (a very large part) Brianna's BodyMapping® and I don't feel right putting any of it out in the public view prior to two things happening- 1) Her book gets published and 2) I can actually use it with some amount of mastery. With that being said what I am learning transcends style and falls flatly into ubiquitous patterning problems... Firstly, the measurements. I re took all my wife's numbers this morning. No, I won't publish them. Sheesh! Now, to illustrate my lecture, I will use an image I have taken from a website called www.simpledress.com I thank them in advance of me getting permission from them for the use of their graphic to illustrate this lecture. I really need to check out the website more thoroughly- there seems to be some really good information on it.... Anyways But, in period (and for clarification I'm talking about early 1500's Tudor), they weren't necessarily lifted and smooshed to make the cleavage. In fact, the breasts were held close to the body (as every breast should be) creating cleavage across the top of the breast and not using the entire breast to create said cleavage (what a waste of a good breast). Not seeing the problem? If you take the A measurement OVER the breast, you'll create that pocket. So, you'll have to flatten the breast to get the numbers you want to get the look you're trying for. For most women, it's easy enough just to take the measurement without a bra on. There are only two types of breasts that defy gravity- small ones and fake ones. Small breasts are not a worry. Just take the numbers. The fake ones take some finagling. They don't smoosh easily. So, one just has to make the shelf and try not to make it noticeable- like using a stomacher to hide the shelf behind. Fake ones usually come standard with cleavage, so it takes some of the pressure off the costumer... So, Modernly take the measurement in the bra, in period- let them hang free... For the flat chest smooshed cleavage look of the medieval/renaissance dresses, take the measurement off of the jugular notch. That will give you a straight line down the center line (sternum/umbilicus/pubic symphysis) with out the interference or distraction of the breasts. In fact, any garment who's ultimate goal is to give a voluptuous woman the figure of a 10 year old boy should measure off of this line. Now for women with exceptionally large- or fake- breasts, this degree of smooshing may not be appropriate (or comfortable), so giving a little ease into this measurement may be required. Ok, so I know your asking- where did this come from? Well, I took the wrong type of measurement on my wife and in redrafting the pattern for her kirtle I caught the mistake- thankfully prior to cutting fabric. Thank you Brianna for making me pattern a body block prior to making the pattern! What's a body block? Good question! Take all your raw measurements and put them on butcher paper. Now, play connect the dots!
This picture- borrowed from http://dressdiary.blogspot.com/2006/09/basic-tunic-instructions.html without permission- illustrates quite well a basic body block- the black lines. The green lines show the garment style modifications, and the redlines- as stated- are the adjustments to the pattern. From the basic body block, one can create the pattern simply by putting in the basic design elements- curves, neckline, angles, darts, gussets, etc...- onto the block. Bang! There's your pattern! The Renaissance Tailor comes through with a good, basic start with application of this here: http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_patterndraft.htm
12/20/08 So the next question I'm chunking through is where does the
bottom of the Armsyce lay? Is it at the Bust Measurement or the High Bust? If it sits at the High Bust, then there is a natural booby bulge in the basic body block. That's not something I've ever seen in a pattern. But- on the flip side, the armsyce is absolutely massive if taken down at the bust line. Yikes! So the answer, as I've found, is that the bottom of the armsyce rests at the chest measurement. "Pattern Cutting for Men's Costume" by Elizabeth Friendship has it plainly illustrated on pg. 25. It's the only reference I was able to find which just came out and said it. Everybody else seems to rely on math or "common sense". Blah, blah, blah Yeah, Ok, I know there is a difference between men and women (except exceptionally young, skinny or obese), but the answer seems to make sense, so I'm going with it. It's good enough for a toile, anyways.
Which brings up another good question- what does the curve of the armsyce supposed to look like and how is it accomplished? I have no bloody clue, other than to use a French curve. Something I don't currently posses.... Armsyce, one of the greatest mysteries of costuming for the beginner, along with necklines.... Now, for the beginner, please take note of this fact: THE FRONT AND BACK OF THE BASIC BODY BLOCKS ARE TWO DIFFERENT BEASTIES ALTOGETHER! That means what you did for the front, you must do for the back. Why? Because women don't have boobs on their backs (imagine how much fun that would be!). Guys are different too. Often the backs are broader then their fronts, giving a slight curve to their backs- especially the upper back (thoracic region). Women have this curve too- shoulders often get rolled forward, or, in our older models, osteoporosis... So taking measurements across the back, especially the upper back is vital for a good fit. Now, the theory I'm working off of is that, if you take the high bust # and low bust #, mark them on your block, draw a line from one to another and then find a center point between the two, you'll find your bust measurement without the breasts. This is to better mark your armsyce. Because, you know, just as we discussed, the armsyce bottoms out at the bust measurement. But, once again, women don't have breasts on their back, so that needs to be taken out of the equation. Ok, so I just finished the mock on the Tudor Kirtle bodice. It fit near as perfect as I could manage! Yes- the armsyce sits on the chest measurement! Yes- the back measurements are absolutely necessary! Things sat beautifully! It all worked! Yeah! 12/31/08 So, shortly after I posted this, I got this from Brianna: Only one argument: the bottom of the armscye sits at the high bust measurement. Otherwise your darts on a modern block don’t work. Also, your sleeves will sit sloppy and loose at the underarm. Your corset won’t set right either. and my response was: I've tried it that way without much success. Now, I will say I'm working from a slightly different mindset. Both Kimberley and I are physical/athletic minded, meaning we have a tendency to labor in our garb. The larger armsyce is more comfortable- even with sleeves- in that regard. A tighter armsyce have a tendency to bind under the arms uncomfortably. That could simply be just because I have no clue on how to deal with them effectively though :-) Now, it does mean that fitted- truly fitted- sleeves are darn near impossible with an armsyce that low. When I take a chest measurement around the breasts, I usually have the breasts positioned where I want them to sit, instead of letting them hang free- unless, of course, I'm dealing with smalls or fakes (in which case they should already be in place). At some point I need to figure our to do darts well. The ones I've tried in the past have always come out looking like, well, darts. and she said: Then you are cutting it wrong. We’ll work on it. Darts are an entire weekend on their own. If you don’t have Helen Armstrong’s pattern book or You might want to get it. (ok- side note from me- this is a damn fine text! Well worth your time!) I then replied: You are probably very right! throw the garment on the model inside out, pinch off the excess, sew it and the cut of the flap = Dart. One day, I'm actually going to have to bring a couple of the books down and sit with you so I can figure out how to do some of this. She the replied (very patiently, I might add): ...Part of the problem is the sleeve cap is actually too high and the sleeve needs to be cut as a “sport” sleeve, not a dress sleeve. The basic premise of a dart is to make a 2 dimensional piece of cloth fit over a three dimension area of the body. In topographical terms, a mound or hill, in math terms a cone or hemisphere. There is always a point around which a dart can be rotated or moved. It isn’t difficult, but it is a visual concept that I need to show you. Bust darts are especially unique and have some interesting rules. The bump you talked about can be accommodated by an additional dart from the armscye that points to the bust point and can be moved after it is fitted... And as usual we went off on your respective tangents about such things which have no place here. Yes it is possible to have a friendship with your instructors. As long as they don't have to fill out transcripts in part or in whole for you, enjoy the time you have with them. Life is well too short not enjoying people on any level. especially those which mean something to you. Seriously, we lack this in the SCA. How many friends in the SCA do you have that you could recognize in a business suit? Do you know their modern names? Ever been to their house for non SCA functions? Slept on their couch? Slept with their pets? ever been to where they work during business hours? Could you pick them out of a line up if they were sporting a "Mel Gibson" or "Nick Nolte" arrested type hair style?
My point exactly.
Anyways.... So, the redrafted tudor gown pattern which inspired this whole section is here: Now, the armsyce for the gown IS cut at the High Bust point. This garment requires fitted sleeves (at the armsyce, at least) and the mock up I did fit well over the kirtle. Amazingly enough, there did not appear to be any binding at the armsyce. Ok then. I'm guessing my skill level has increased dramatically since the last time I attempted a fitted sleeve. I will be doing a mock up of the sleeves tomorrow.
1/2/09 I took the day off yesterday. I just wasn't feeling right. Lack of sleep plus allergies sort of whooped up on my overworked rear end. So today I started with one of the major banes of any beginning tailor's existence. Drafting a fitted sleeve pattern. They rarely work out well for me- mostly because I spend a lot of time guessing... Which was ok a while ago. Back when I could use the three foot rule excuse... But now, I actually have to figure it out. As it turned out, it's smart when Brianna says "Get the resource. It's worth your time" Remember that book She told me to get and I told her I already had? Remember ? That puppy answered a question and solved a problem I've been having with sleeves for a while. Sleeve heads are a pain. Especially if you have no idea how to get the correct depth. Which, I didn't. Alcega didn't help- his patterns don't have sleeve heads. Arnold didn't help much either- very few examples of a basic pattern. But Armstrong did! There it was, the depth of the sleeve head is the distance from the shoulder point to the bicep measurement. Easy peasy! Errrr... no. Why? Because when I take a bicep measurement I usually take it flexed (because I have to be able to labor in all my garb- even my court stuff. Ask the kitchen crew at Calafian Investure. From heralding to washing dishes and hauling gray water- all in white brocade, blue dupioni, and pearls). That leaves it at half way down the proximal arm. No good for a sleeve measurement. Now most people take the bicep number right under the armpit (where the corresponding high bust measurement is taken on the chest) and that is the correct place to take it for the sleeve head depth. With that being said, there is a little structure call the Deltoid Tuberosity, which is just about the right place to take that number, if your going to measure like me. The Deltoid Tuberosity is where the deltoid muscle attaches to the humerus- and that's no joke! Well, that was counter productive. But that's why we do mock ups. OK, so now I'm going to redraft the sleeve block. But this time, instead of using her numbers, I'm going to re take the numbers with her in the dress. Since the sleeve will be attached to the dress and not the wife, those numbers need to originate from the armsyce and not the shoulder. (The mock up I did showed a HUGE gap between the bottom of the sleeve and where the armsyce would lay- like 6 inches! Alcega, you maddening Spaniard! I'm beginning to understand your patterns just a bit better! I took four measurements with the dress on my wife- top of the arm (from shoulder strap to wrist), bottom of the arm (from bottom of armsyce to wrist), back of the arm (back of the armsyce to wrist), and front of the arm (front of the armsyce to the wrist). All numbers were taken on a 90 degree flex of the elbow. The Top and Bottom numbers were exactly the same! The back number was 1 inch larger (exactly 1 inch) than the Top and Bottom numbers. The Front number was 3 inches less! That should make for an interesting sleeve block! What does that mean though? Alcega, as previously stated, doesn't have mucho grande sleeve caps like our modern sleeves. I didn't understand why. Now, I would bet that his patterns we derived from the garment and not necessarily the person. I could be wrong, but that's what I've found. Let's see if it works! 1/3/08 Aha! I found my sleeve cap! It looks a little different then what a modern sleeve cap looks like. That's because I measured off the bodice. Since the sleeve is of the back seam variety, I used that as my base line for the pattern. It was also the longest (at 24.5 inches) line of the sleeve. Thankfully, both the top line and underarm/bottom line of the sleeve were exactly the same number (23.5 inches), so I could make the sleeve symmetrical- needing only one pattern. And for the shortest line of the sleeve: the front seam. So, we have the basic fitted sleeve block based off of the gown:
And now, we have the fitted sleeve pattern, using all the numbers taken:
Notice the sleeve head is shaped differently then a standard sleeve head, but guess what? it fit. Beautifully. Notice the top of the pattern is the longest. That's the back number- where the back seam will go. See the plateau in the middle? That's the top and the bottom of the sleeve. And the shortest being, of course, the front. Cut two, sew them together, and viola! a sleeve the fits perfectly into the armsyce!
Tips at the end of the Tirade: 1) Never add in a seam allowance to your Body Block. It doesn't need it. It doesn't want it. And, if you do, you'll screw up your patterning. Been their, done that.... |
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,
Line 1 marks the standard bust measurement- usually taken around the
nipple line of the breast (yes, if they are small breasted or particularly
perky, on can get away with taking this measurement without support, other
wise, one needs to position the breasts into place using what ever
undergarments the individual will be wearing. You know, like a bra or
corset or some such nonsense) . Line A marks the side neck to bust
measurement. In a modern dress, the combination of the two creates a
pocket for the breasts to be cradled in. Yes, they can be smooshed for
cleavage sake, and this "shelf" has the enviable job of lifting and
smooshing the breasts.
Putting
it on paper, suddenly the pattern looks really familiar. Like the patterns
I've used that have worked in the past...Imagine that :-) The armsyce
looks massive.....
